Isiphakamiso esijwayelekile sesitayela esimeme ukugqoka izinto ozithandayo kaningi. Izikhwama zezandla zifanelekile ngokwemvelo kule njongo. Kuyinto ye-wardrobe engasetshenziswa kabusha izinsuku ezimbalwa, amasonto noma izinyanga. Iba isandiso sengalo yakho nendawo ethembekile yokugcina yonke into oyidingayo usuku. Izikhwama zezandla ezihamba phambili ziyasebenza, zihlukahlukene, futhi zibonisa imiklamo emihle-le nhlanganisela iqinisekisa ukuthi awukwazi ukufanisa izingubo ezihlukahlukene kuphela, kodwa futhi ugqoke amashumi eminyaka ezitayela. Okungcono nakakhulu, lezi zinhlobo zezikhwama ezizinzile zibeka isibonelo somthwalo wemfanelo nokuqwashisa, ngaphezu kwezinsiza ezivame ukusetshenziswa.
Kodwa-ke, ukuze ugweme ukuthi ucabange ukuthi kufanele utshale izikhwama zokunethezeka eziphezulu ukuze uqinisekise ukuqina, yazi ukuthi kunezinhlobo eziningi ezincane ezitshala imali ezintweni ofuna ukuzigcina unomphela. Amalebula ezikhwama angu-10 alandelayo ahlanganisa amagama amasha embonini yemfashini, kanye nemikhiqizo efufusayo okungenzeka ukuthi ayizange ikubambe. Imiklamo yabo iyodwa-enezithombe ezihlukile nezisebenzayo nezindwangu ezikhanga amehlo-zanele ukuheha ukunaka kwanoma ubani, kodwa okwenzekayo ngemuva kokukhiqiza kusungula izinto ezintsha ngokufanayo. Lezi zikhwama zihlanganisa izindwangu eziphinde zasetshenziswa futhi zatholakala ngokusemthethweni, eziningi zazo ezikhiqizwa ngamaqoqo amancane ukuze kuqinisekiswe ukuthi ukuthenga kwakho kuzwakala kukhethekile kuyilapho ugwema ukukhiqiza ngokweqile nokumosha. Ukuze uqonde izinto eziza kuqala zomkhiqizo ngamunye ngokuqondile, bazokwabelana ngokuthi bakuchaza kanjani ukusimama ngokwemibandela yabo. Sicela uqhubeke ufunda ngaphambi kokufaka imali esikhwameni sakho esilandelayo esiyintandokazi.
Sifaka kuphela imikhiqizo ekhethwe ngokuzimela ithimba labahleli be-TZR. Kodwa-ke, uma uthenga imikhiqizo ngezixhumanisi ezikulesi sihloko, singathola ingxenye yokuthengisa.
Abasunguli abambisene be-Advene u-Zixuan no-Wang Yijia babeka ukusimama emnyombweni womkhiqizo wabo. “Sichithe iminyaka emibili sithuthukisa inqubo futhi sihlinzeka ngemikhiqizo yekhwalithi eyenziwe kahle, eyakhiwe kahle ngamanani aphusile. Sisafunda futhi siyakhula, "kusho u-Wang womkhiqizo owethulwe ngo-2020. "Sihlola ngokucophelela imizamo yethu yokusimama, sigxile kuwo wonke umjikelezo wempilo wezinto zokwakha (okuhlanganisa ukuthengwa, ukukhiqiza, ukuhlanganisa nokupakisha), kunokuba sizitike ngakho- izixazululo ezibizwa ngokuthi 'eziluhlaza'."
Ku-Advene, lokhu kusho ukweqa ezinye izinto zesikhumba se-vegan, ezinye zazo ezingaqukatha inani elikhulu le-polyurethane. “Sikhetha ukusebenzisa isikhumba senkomo esingalandeleka esingu-100% emikhiqizweni yokudla ukuze sikhiqize yonke imikhiqizo yethu yesikhumba, futhi siyikhiqize embonini yegolide ye-Scope C egunyazwe yi-Leather Working Group, okuyi-13 kuphela emhlabeni,” uWang. kusho. "Isitifiketi siqinisekisa ukuthi isinyathelo ngasinye, kusukela esikhumbeni esingavuthiwe kuya esikhumbeni esiphelile, sihlangabezana nezindinganiso eziphakeme kakhulu zomthelela nokukhiqizwa kwemvelo."
Ezinye izinyathelo ze-Advene zihlanganisa ukuqeda ukusetshenziswa kokugcwalisa ipulasitiki nokuhlinzeka nge-100% ukulethwa kwe-carbon neutral. Ngaphezu kwalokho, uXuan wengeze ngokuthi ukwakheka komkhiqizo ngokwawo kucatshangelwe kahle. “Ngokushicilela idizayini eyodwa ngesikhathi, kunokuba sisebenzise izindlela ezijwayelekile zesizini, sizivulela indawo thina nabahlanganyeli bethu ukuze sithole ugqozi oluvela emhlabeni osizungezile ngaphandle kokusungulwa kohlelo lokukhiqiza olungenaluzwela Ingcindezi enkulu,” kumemezela.
Umkhiqizo ka-Natasha “Roop” Fernandes Anjo osuselwe eManchester kungenzeka ukuthi udonse ukunaka kwakho ngedizayini yawo yaseJapane ephefumulelwe nge-furoshiki, kodwa lesi ngesinye sezitayela i-Roop asidalile ngezindwangu ezingathengeki kuphela. “Ekuqaleni ngangicabanga ukuthi lokhu kuzoba yinkinga: njengoba ibhizinisi lami likhula, ngazama ukuthenga izindwangu ezanele zebhizinisi lami,” kusho u-Anjo. “Nokho ziningi izindwangu ezingafunwa lapho, futhi angiqondi ukuthi kungani kufanele sizikhiqize futhi sisaphaze kangaka.”
Iqoqo lamanje lika-Anjo lenziwe ngokwezifiso, futhi ugxile ekusebenziseni izingcezu eziklanywe ezinyangeni ezingu-18 ezedlule ukuze adale ezinye izitayela zakhe zokudlala, okuhlanganisa izikhwama zezithunywa nezikhwama zamasongo ezinwele. "Ithonya lami elikhulu indaba yokuthi izesekeli zami zizoba yingxenye yazo uma zifika ekhaya labo elisha," kusho yena. “Ngithanda ukucabanga ukuthi isikhwama sami sizodansela wonke amaculo, ukudla abazobamba iqhaza kukho, ukuthi i-bun yami ingasiza kanjani ekuvimbeleni izinwele ukuba zibonakale ebusweni bami lapho othile esebenza ekhaya, futhi ngicabange konke engikwenzayo kuba yingxenye yaso. , kungenza ngijabule kakhulu ngokuphila komuntu.”
Igama elithi Merlette alivamile kwimfashini esimeme, kodwa umsunguli uMarina Cortbawi uye wandisa uhla lomkhiqizo womkhiqizo ukuze afake izikhwama zezandla kulo nyaka. "Siqale ukusebenzisa izinto ezikhona eqoqweni lethu-okunciphisa kakhulu imfucumfucu yezikhwama zethu zendwangu yonke," kusho u-Cortbawi, enezela ukuthi ulayini usebenzisa izindwangu eziqinisekisiwe ze-OEKO-TEX® (ngaphandle kwe-100 Izinhlobonhlobo zamakhemikhali ayingozi)) futhi uhloniphe ubuciko. "Sisebenza nethimba lezingcweti besifazane abanekhono e-India ukwenza izikhwama zezandla (ezinye izitayela zidinga amahora angu-100 wokufekethiswa ngesandla!) imisebenzi yezandla."
Izikhwama ze-Merlette zizokwethulwa ngezitayela ezintsha nemibala emisha ngokuvumelana nezinkathi zonyaka, okuyizikhwama ezinhle kakhulu zansuku zonke. Lokhu kufaka phakathi izikhwama ezincane ezinamaphethini amahle alukiwe, kanye nezikhwama zikabhasikidi zaseSpain ezigqugquzelwe ukufekethiswa kuka-Kantha okwabiwe ngu-Cortbawi. "Ngiyethemba ukuthi lezi zikhwama zingagqokwa imini nobusuku, phakathi nesonto nangezimpelasonto - yilokhu engibona abesifazane begqoke emigwaqweni yaseNew York, kanye nempilo yami njengomnikazi webhizinisi nomama omusha."
Ku-Hozen ezinze e-Los Angeles, indlela eqhubekayo ukusebenzisa ezinye ze-vegan ochungechungeni lwayo lwezikhwama ezibukeka ibhotela ngaphandle kokulimaza imvelo. Umsunguli u-Rae Nicoletti wabelane ngokuthi izinto ezisetshenziswayo zihlanganisa “izinketho ezithuthukisiwe, ezigaywe kabusha, nezibolayo ezakhiwe ngendlela ecophelelayo, engakhethi kanye nengenamthelela ophansi.” I-Hozen futhi isekukhiqizweni kwayo kwenqwaba ye-hobo, isikhwama sesandla kanye nezitayela ze-crossbody. Ukusebenzisa i-Desserto cactus "isikhumba", lezi zitayela zisebenzisa imibala engathathi hlangothi namathoni akhanyayo.
"Ukumelana nokugqokwa kwesizini akuxoxiswana ngakho," kusho uNicoletti ngomklamo wakhe. Wabelana ngokuthi u-Hozen uhlukile hhayi kuphela esikhwameni ngokwawo, kodwa futhi kuzo zonke izinyathelo zenqubo. Lokhu kufaka phakathi ukusetshenziswa kwamabhokisi okuthumela asebenziseka kabusha e-Boox kanye nokuhlinzekwa kwezinhlelo zokulungisa/zokugaya kabusha ukuze kuqinisekiswe ukuthi abathengi bawusebenzisa ngokugcwele umjikelezo wabo wokuphila wokuthenga.
Ngemva kokusebenza enkampanini enkulu iminyaka eminingi, uMónica Santos Gil wethula uhlobo lwakhe lwe-Santos by Mónica ngesikhathi sokuvalelwa yedwa, ehlose ukunciphisa inqubo yemfashini ngamaqoqo amancane nemiklamo yangokwezifiso. "Njengenkampani encane, ukugxila kulolu hlobo lokukhiqiza kuyindlela yethu yokulawula ngokuqondile i-inventory yethu futhi sinciphise ukukhiqizwa ngokweqile," kusho uGil mayelana nomklamo wakhe wesitayela, ohlakaniphile ophefumulelwe ukwakhiwa kwe-postmodern kanye nomklamo wangaphakathi. “Ukuba lula kwefomu kusiza ekudaleni uhlobo lokubonakala koketshezi olubonakalayo, okuyisisekelo okuyiphrojekthi mina no-Santos esiyifunayo: amafomu alula nokuthola izindlela zokwenza lezi zimo zazise idizayini yonke yomkhiqizo othile engisebenza kuwo .”
Ngaphezu kwalokho, iSantos kaMónica isebenzisa isikhumba somdolofiya esenziwe eMexico. “[Ku]qinile futhi kuzoqinisekisa ukuthi uzokwazi ukujabulela isikhwama sakho iminyaka ezayo,” wabelane noGil ngale ndaba. “Ingxenye yesikhumba sethu somdolofiya iyakwazi ukubola, kanti enye iyakwazi ukugaywa kabusha. Umthelela wokugaywa kabusha nawo mncane kakhulu ngoba kusebenzisa izakhi ezingenabuthi.”
U-Wilglory Tanjong wethule i-Anima Iris ngo-2020. Lo mkhiqizo uhlonipha izimpande zakhe zaseCameroonia futhi uzibophezele ekuchazeni kabusha ukunethezeka okwaziwayo. Ku-Tanjong, lo msebenzi uhlanganisa ukusebenza nezingcweti e-Dakar kanye nokuthola izinto ezivela kubahlinzeki bendawo baseSenegal. Idizayini ewumphumela ye-Anima Iris ihlanganisa idizayini yesibambo esiphezulu esinohlu olucebile nolujabulisayo lwendlela yokwenza, imibala namaphethini.
Lo mkhiqizo usebenzisa isikhumba sekhwalithi ephezulu ochungechungeni lwawo lwezikhwama ezidonsa amehlo futhi uzibophezele ekuthuthukisweni okusimeme kuyo yonke inqubo yokukhiqiza, ukuqinisekisa ukuthi ukukhiqizwa kwemikhiqizo akusoze kwafika ngezindleko zomhlaba kanye nabantu abahlala kuwo. "Ukuze sifeze ukuzibophezela kwethu ekuthuthukisweni okusimeme, sithathe imodeli ye-zero waste kulo lonke uhlelo lokukhiqiza," kusho imboni ye-Anima Iris. "Lokhu kuqinisekisa ukuthi azikho izinto ezimbili ezidaliwe ezifanayo, futhi akukho mpahla emoshwayo."
Yethulwe ngu-Loddie Allison ngo-2020, u-Porto unamathela kufilosofi ethi "okuncane kakhulu", eqala ngesitayela sesikhwama esisodwa sochungechunge (okungenani okwamanje): isikhwama esidonsa ngamasayizi amabili. Idizayini ilula futhi i-chic, ehlanganisa izici zobuhle bendabuko baseJapane. "Ugqozi lwethu lwavela ku-Wabi-Sabi, ifilosofi engayifunda kukhokho wami," kusho u-Alison. "UPorto uyamhlonipha nangendlela abona ngayo umhlaba."
Ngokuqondene nezinto zokwakha, i-Porto ibambisana nezimboni eziphethwe umndeni kanye nezimboni zesikhumba, isebenzisa isikhumba saseNappa nokotini wemvelo. "Iqoqo lenziwe ngezandla e-Tuscany, futhi ngokugxila ekukhiqizweni okuhamba kancane, okuncane, siyakwazi ukusekela abadwebi ngenkathi sinciphisa umthelela emvelweni," wanezela u-Alison.
Umklami u-Tessa Vermeulen uyavuma ukuthi “ukusimama” sekuyigama elidumile lokuthengisa, kodwa uhlobo lwakhe lwaseLondon i-Hai lungumkhiqizi wezikhwama zikasilika ongaphelelwa isikhathi futhi owubukhazikhazi. Ngokunaka ngokucophelela izinqubo zokukhiqiza nokugcizelela ukugwema ukukhiqiza ngokweqile, umkhiqizo uphila ngokuvumelana nokulindelwe. “E-Hai, sizama ukwenza izinto ongazigqoka futhi uziqoqe isikhathi eside,” kusho uVermeulen. “Lokhu akubangelwa nje kuphela umklamo wakudala, kodwa futhi ngoba zonke izinto zethu zisebenzisa izindwangu zikasilika. Ngokwami, ngicabanga ukuthi okubalulekile wukubheka kuphela imisebenzi ozoba ngeyakho isikhathi eside.”
UVermeulen wakhulela phakathi kweNetherlands neChina. Wathenga usilika eSuzhou futhi wawukhiqiza “ngenani elincane kakhulu,” esho, evumela “isidingo sinqume ukukhiqizwa okwengeziwe.” Njengamanje, izitayela ze-Hai (okusho ngesi-Mandarin Chinese) zifaka izikhwama zamahlombe ejometri, amafreyimu esibambo aphezulu anemininingwane yoqalo, izikhwama ze-shirred drawstring, neminye imikhiqizo yezicathulo nezingubo.
Unyaka ka-2021, futhi kungenzeka ukuthi usunochungechunge lwezikhwama zezandla ezisebenziseka kabusha ongazizungezisa uye esitolo segrosa, umtapo wolwazi noma imakethe yomlimi, kodwa uJuni uwuhlobo olusha lwesikhwama esilula okufanele lukhululwe. Isikhala. "Inhloso yami ukwakha uhlobo olubonakalayo olufana 'nezikhwama ezisetshenziswayo'," kusho umsunguli uJanean Mann, owabeka uJunes "njengomuntu onozwelo ohloselwe ukusiza abesifazane baseMexico." I-Brand” ngenxa yokukhiqizwa kwayo yaqasha inkampani yokuthunga yabesifazane bonke-e-Juarez.
Kodwa-ke, ngaphezu kokusekela lo mphakathi, uJuni ubuye abe nomthelela endwangu yayo yobunikazi ye-Bio-Knit, enochungechunge lwemibala yomhlaba futhi egqamile. "Senza isikhwama esibola ngokuphelele esingeke sibe khona phakade ezindaweni zokulahla imfucumfucu noma olwandle," kusho uMann. "Ngale ndwangu entsha, siyakwazi ukuvala ngokuphelele umjikelezo futhi sisuse ngokuphumelelayo ipulasitiki emhlabeni." Lapho echaza le nqubo eyingqayizivele, izikhwama zikaJunes zaqala ukusebenzisa indwangu eyenziwe ngamabhodlela epulasitiki agaywe kabusha nge-CiCLO. “Lokhu kwakheka kuvumela amagciwane emvelo asezindlini zokulahla imfucumfucu nasemanzini olwandle ukuba adle imicu phakathi kwezinsuku ezingu-60, ukuze isikhwama sibole ngokuphelele futhi sibuyiselwe emhlabeni. Umphumela uba ukuthi indwangu ishiya umhlaba ngemva kokuba isisebenzi sayo isiqediwe, ithathe ipulasitiki, ngaphandle kwalokho Lawa mapulasitiki angasetshenziswa nawo cishe unomphela.”
Isikhwama sesandla se-Asata Maisé singase sibe esinye sezitayela ezinzima kakhulu kulolu hlu, kodwa kufanelekile ukuzama. Idizayinwe umklami we-Delaware u-Asata Maisé Beeks, ubuhle obuyisithonjana bochungechunge olungaziwa buvela ekusetshenzisweni kwezinto ezisetshenziswa kabusha, ezihlanganiswe ndawonye ngephethini ekhethekile, eyodwa yohlobo. “Ngizibekela inselelo yokuthi ngiphinde ngisebenzise indwangu esele esikhundleni sokuyilahla ngemva kokuqeda amanye amaphrojekthi,” u-Bixie wabelane ngokudala isofthiwe yakhe, futhi umklami ukuqinisekisile lokhu kukhetha ngamabomu. "Ukuba nokwenzeka kungenye yezikhuthazo zami ezinkulu zokuklama."
U-Beek njengamanje unenkampani encane futhi uvame ukukhulula iqoqo lakhe. “Ngiphinde ngikhulume nemfashini enokunensa kanye nemfashini eyenziwe ngezandla,” kusho umsiki wengqephu osafufusa. “Zonke izinto, kuhlanganisa nezikhwama, zingathengwa ngemuva kwenqubo ende yokudala.” Uma unentshisekelo yokuthenga esakho isikhwama se-Asata Maisé, u-Beeks uncoma ukuthi uzengeze ohlwini lwakhe lwama-imeyili, ikakhulukazi ngoba iqoqo elilandelayo Lizofika ekuqaleni kwalokhu kuwa.
Isikhathi sokuthumela: Aug-23-2021