Kungenzeka yini ukuthi ukubhuqa kulahlekelwe inhlansi yayo? Lona ngomunye wemibuzo equbuke kulandela iqoqo lika-Balenciaga langaphambi kwekwindla ka-2021, elehle njengebhuku lokubuka ledijithali kule mpelasonto. Kwethulwa kungemuva lezimpawu zomhlaba ezidumile, iqoqo bekuyingxube yezinto eziyisisekelo zezemidlalo kanye namasiginesha ahlakaniphile omqondisi wobuciko u-Demna Gvasalia njengezibuko zelanga zesikhathi esizayo, izikhwama zezandla ezimbozwe izilwane ezihuquzelayo, namajazi e-puffer yesitatimende. Kodwa-ke, nakuba izinkomba seziphenduke inkambiso kubaklami namuhla, okwakukade kusha futhi kujabulisa manje kuzwakala kweqiwe.
Kusukela embukisweni wokuqala ka-Gvasalia e-French fashion house ngo-2016, i-Balenciaga yaziwa kancane ngobuhle bayo basekuqaleni nangokwengeziwe ngesimo sayo sengqondo sokubhuqa kanye nokuhlekisa okungajwayelekile. Ngempela, nakuba iqoqo ngalinye libona izingcezu zabesifazane njengezingubo ezinamahlombe aqinile namacici esitatimende esiyihaba, kulezi zinsuku, igama elithi "Balenciaga" lenza umuntu acabange ngokuthunyelwe kwe-Instagram yomkhiqizo ngaphezu kwanoma yini. Ukuphatha kukaGvasalia kwaqala ngoshintsho olukhulu ezinkundleni zokuxhumana, futhi selokhu umkhiqizo usuthumele izithombe ezingaqondakali nezifihlekile, ngaphandle kwamagama-ncazo: inja encane egqoke izibuko zelanga ezinkulu, isikhwama se-Hourglass esifakwe ingwenya esifakwe phakathi kwemilenze eqoshiwe, u-anyanisi. ngobuso obudwetshiwe be-anime obufakwe indandatho yesitatimende esiyikristalu. Uphinde wavuselela izitayela ezifana nesikhwama somkhiqizo “Esedolobheni”, futhi evamise ukwenza izingcezu ze-Balenciaga azi isitayela kumafonti omkhiqizo nemibala ecishe ifane naleyo ka-Ikea, i-Uber Eats, kanye nomkhankaso kamongameli kaBernie Sanders.
Iqoqo langaphambi Kokuwa, elithathwe izithombe ngokumelene nezimpawu zomhlaba zamazwe ngamazwe ngomoya wokuhamba, labona amasiginesha amaningi ka-Gvasalia awathatha esuka ku-Vetements: ama-silhouette amakhulu, inhlanganisela yokugijima nezingubo zokugqoka, namajazi agqamile nezingubo. Kodwa-ke, akukho okubonakale kunenhlansi efanayo eyaqala ukusebenza kwakhe kweBalenciaga. Ezinye izinkomba zesiko le-pop zize ngendlela yezikibha nama-hoodies e-Hulk, kanye nelogo efana ne-GAP ebhalwe ngokuthi “GAY.” U-Gvasalia uphinde wabuyela ezintanjeni azijwayele njengophawu lwakhe oluthi “BB”, olushaye ama-windbreaker namakepisi e-baseball. Iningi lezikhwama, izingubo zokugqoka, nezingubo zangaphandle kwakubonakala sengathi kunezengezo ebuhleni bakhe obuvukela umbuso, futhi nakuba isibuyekezo esisodwa safika ngendlela yezinto ezisimeme, akukho neyodwa yezingcezu ngokwazo eyagqama kakhulu. Nakuba izinto zakamuva zika-Balenciaga seziphenduke zaba yinqaba kakhulu kunesitayela-njengezithende ezigxilwe ezinzwaneni zomkhiqizo, amabhuzu ahlotshisiwe, nama-totes alingisa izikhwama zokudla kwezinja-futhi ngokuvamile athengiswa, kubonakala sengathi "into enhle kakhulu" ingakwazi. kungenzeka.
Lokhu kungenzeka kungenxa yesikhathi: ngemuva kwakho konke, iqoqo lomkhiqizo elihlanganisiwe elithi “Aria” ne-Gucci—abaningi abalibiza ngokuthi ukusebenzelana kweshumi leminyaka—iqale ukuboniswa ezinsukwini ezandulele ekuqhumeni kobukhazikhazi. Kodwa umoya omubi nowobuhlakani abaningi abebewulindele ku-Balenciaga ubonakale ungekho ngokuphelele eqoqweni lakamuva le-Gvasalia. Iningi lalezi zihlukaniso zizizwe zintekenteke kakhulu kunendwangu, lo mbhali ezibuza ukuthi lizobiza malini amajini anemilenze eqondile noma amabhulukwe angamile kahle uma esendlini yama-French esikhundleni, okuthi, e-Hanes noma isitolo sakudala. Izingcezu ezifana nezingubo zezimbali eziphefumulelwe zama-80s, amabhuzu anonyawo olucijile phezulu ethangeni, nobucwebe obuyihaba bekunomusa omncane osindisayo, kodwa sekukonke akuzange kuzizwe kusha. Ngokuvamile, ukuqoqwa akuzange kubonakale ukuhambisa inaliti, ngese; akukho lutho olushaqisayo noma olushaqisayo u-Gvasalia abengakalubonisi emaqoqweni adlule, futhi bekungacaci ukuthi izingubo zingakwazi “ukuzibamba” ngaphandle kwegama lelebula eliwubukhazikhazi elinamathiselwe.
Umphakathi nawo ubonakala uhlukene phakathi kokwakamuva kukaBalenciaga. Ngenkathi umhlaziyi wemfashini u-José Criales-Unzueta egqamisa inkomba ye-Gap esobala yomkhiqizo, akazange akuncome kakhulu iqoqo. “Angisajabulile ngoBalenciaga. Lokho ekuqaleni okwakuzwakala kuphazamisa futhi kuyinselele manje kuzwakala kulindelekile futhi kungenasidingo, ”kusho uCriales-Unzueta ku-Instagram Stories, wengeza ngokuthi izingubo “azijabulisi noma azifiseleki kakhulu.” U-YouTuber kanye nomgxeki wemfashini u-Luke Meagher (AKA Haute le Mode) bavumelana ngokufanayo ku-Instagram ukuthi iqoqo "lalingekho eduze nezinguquko," nakuba ebonile ukuthi uthando lukaCristobal Balenciaga lwevolumu lwalukhona kanjani.
Izithameli nazo azizange zijabule. Abanye baveze ukuthi bathanda izikhwama namabhuzu athile ku-Instagram naku-Twitter, kodwa ngokuvamile bacacisa ukuthi iqoqo libacasule kanjani. "Ukhethe ukubukeka okuhle kakhulu, kepha angazi ukuthi yini okufanele ngicabange ngayo ngeqoqo lonke," omunye umsebenzisi uphawule ngokuthunyelwe kukaMeagher, kanti omunye uchithe ngaphansi kokuthunyelwe kukaCriales-Unzueta's Instagram feed: "Ukubhekisela nokucaphuna kaningi. ngaphandle kokukhombisa izingubo nemikhiqizo ekhangayo, ethokozisayo nemisha ayisanqamuki futhi engakaze ibe khona izinkathi ezithile zonyaka manje.”
Nomaphi lapho i-Balenciaga eya khona esikhathini esizayo, kuyacaca ukuthi iqoqo langaphambi kwekwindla kuzodingeka libhekane nezibuyekezo zangaphambi kwesikhathi ezixubile kanye nesifiso esinamandla somphakathi sezingubo ezinenhliziyo uma lifika ezitolo kuleli hlobo.
Bhalisela i-newsletter yethu futhi usilandele ku-Facebook ne-Instagram ukuze uhlale unolwazi lwakamuva ngazo zonke izindaba zakamuva zemfashini kanye nenhlebo yomkhakha enamanzi.
var googletag=googletag||{};googletag.cmd=googletag.cmd||[];(umsebenzi(){var gads=document.createElement('script');gads.async=true;gads.type='text /javascript';var useSSL='https:'==document.location.protocol;gads.src=(useSSL?'https:':'http:')+'//www.googletagservices.com/tag/js/ gpt.js';var node=document.getElementsByTagName('script')[0];node.parentNode.insertBefore(gads,node);})();
googletag.cmd.push(function(){googletag.defineSlot('/2344792/skyscraper_300x600′,[300,600],'div-gpt-ad-1395159890273-0′).addService(googletag.googletag.googletag.googletag.googletag). ().enableSingleRequest();googletag.enableServices();});
Isikhathi sokuthumela: May-17-2021