Kungenzeka yini ukuthi ihlaya lilahlekelwe yinhlansi yalo? Lona omunye wemibuzo ephakame ngemuva kweqoqo likaBalenciaga langaphambi kwekwindla ka-2021, elikhishwe njengencwadi yokubukeka yedijithali kule mpelasonto. Njengoba livezwe ngemuva kwezindawo ezidumile, leli qoqo laliyingxube yezisekelo zezemidlalo kanye nezimpawu zomqondisi wokudala uDemna Gvasalia ezifana nezibuko zelanga zesikhathi esizayo, izikhwama zezandla ezifakwe imidwebo yezilwane ezihuquzelayo, kanye namajazi e-puffer acacile. Kodwa-ke, yize izinkomba seziyinto evamile kubaklami namuhla, okwakusha futhi kujabulisa manje kuzwakala sengathi sekweqiwe.
Kusukela umbukiso wokuqala kaGvasalia endlini yemfashini yaseFrance ngo-2016, iBalenciaga ayaziwa kangako ngobuhle bayo bokuqala kodwa kakhulu ngesimo sayo sengqondo sokuhlekisa kanye nokuzijabulisa okungavamile. Ngempela, yize yonke iqoqo libona izingcezu zesifazane njengezingubo eziqinile namahlombe namacici esitatimende okweqile, kulezi zinsuku, igama elithi “Balenciaga” lenza umuntu acabange ngokuthunyelwe kwe-Instagram komkhiqizo ngaphezu kwanoma yini enye. Isikhathi sikaGvasalia saqala ngokuguqulwa okukhulu kwezokuxhumana, futhi selokhu lo mkhiqizo uthumele izithombe eziyimfihlakalo nezingaqondakali, ngaphandle kwamagama-ncazo: inja encane egqoke izibuko zelanga ezinkulu, isikhwama se-Hourglass esibomvu esifakwe phakathi kwemilenze enemidwebo, u-anyanisi onobuso be-anime obudwetshwe ngendandatho yesitatimende sekristalu. Uphinde wavuselela izitayela ezifana nesikhwama se-“City” somkhiqizo, futhi uvame ukwenza izingcezu zeBalenciaga ngamafonti nemibala yomkhiqizo efana kakhulu neye-Ikea, i-Uber Eats, ngisho nomkhankaso kaBernie Sanders wokuba ngumongameli.
Iqoqo langaphambi kwekwindla, elithathwe nge-photoshop ngokumelene nezindawo zomhlaba wonke ngomoya wokuhamba, labona izimpawu eziningi zikaGvasalia azithathele kuVetements: izithunzi ezinkulu, ingxube yezemidlalo kanye nezingubo ezihlelekile, kanye namajazi nezingubo ezinkulu. Kodwa-ke, akukho nokukodwa okwakubonakala kunenhlansi efanayo eyaqala isikhathi sakhe sokuba yiBalenciaga. Ezinye izinkomba zesiko elidumile zeza ngesimo sama-t-shirt nama-hoodies kaHulk, kanye nelogo efana ne-GAP ebhalwe ngokuthi “GAY.” UGvasalia uphinde wabuyela ezinhlotsheni ezijwayelekile njengophawu lwakhe “lwe-BB”, olusakazeke kuma-windbreaker kanye nama-baseball caps. Iningi lezikhwama, izingubo, nezingubo zangaphandle kwakubonakala njengezengezo ekubukekeni kwakhe okuphambene, futhi yize isibuyekezo esisodwa seza ngesimo sezinto ezihlala isikhathi eside, azikho izingcezu ngokwazo ezavelela kakhulu. Nakuba izinto zakamuva zikaBalenciaga seziphenduke zaba yizinto ezingavamile kunezesitayela—njengezithende zalo mkhiqizo ezigqanyiswe yizinzwane, amabhuzu anezivikelo, kanye namathoyizi alingisa izikhwama zokudla kwezinja—futhi ngokuvamile zithengiswa ngokuphelele, kubonakala sengathi “into enhle kakhulu” ingenzeka.
Lokhu kungenzeka ukuthi kungenxa yesikhathi: phela, iqoqo lomkhiqizo elihlanganisiwe elithi “Aria” neGucci—abaningi abalibiza ngokuthi ukubambisana kweminyaka eyishumi—laqala ezinsukwini ezedlule ngokuqhuma kobuhle. Kodwa umoya wobuhlanya abaningi abawulindele kuBalenciaga awubonakalanga ukhona ngokugcwele eqoqweni lakamuva likaGvasalia. Iningi lalezi zingubo ezihlukanisiwe lalizwakala libi kakhulu kunelihle, lo mbhali ezibuza ukuthi ijeans enemilenze eqondile noma amabhulukwe angenasimo azobiza malini uma eseduzane nendlu yaseFrance esikhundleni seHanes noma esitolo sakudala. Izingcezu ezifana nezingubo zezimbali eziphefumulelwe kakhulu ngawo-80s, amabhuzu afinyelela emathangeni, kanye nobucwebe obugqamile kwakuwumusa wokonga kancane, kodwa jikelele azizange zizizwe zintsha. Ngokuvamile, iqoqo lalibonakala lingashukumisi inaliti, ngokwalo; kwakungekho lutho olumangalisayo noma olushaqisayo uGvasalia ayengakalubonisi emaqoqweni adlule, futhi kwakungacaci ukuthi izingubo “zingahlala” yini ngaphandle kwegama lelebula yokunethezeka elidumile.
Umphakathi ubonakala uhlukene phakathi ngezindaba zakamuva zikaBalenciaga. Ngenkathi umhlaziyi wemfashini uJosé Criales-Unzueta eveze ukubhekisela okusobala kwe-Gap yalo mkhiqizo, akazange athole udumo olukhulu ngaleli qoqo. “Angisajabuli ngoBalenciaga. Lokho okwakuzwakala kuphazamisa futhi kuyinselele manje kuzwakala kulindelekile futhi kungasadingeki,” kusho uCriales-Unzueta ku-Instagram Stories, enezela ngokuthi izingubo “azijabulisi noma azifiseleki kakhulu.” Umbhali we-YouTube kanye nomgxeki wemfashini uLuke Meagher (AKA Haute le Mode) naye uvumile ku-Instagram ukuthi leli qoqo “lalingekho eduze nezinguquko,” yize ephawule ukuthi uthando lukaCristobal Balenciaga ngevolumu lwalukhona.
Izithameli azizange zijabule kakhulu. Abanye basho ukuthi bathanda izikhwama namabhuzu athile ku-Instagram naku-Twitter, kodwa ngokuvamile bacacisa ukuthi iqoqo alibajabulisanga kanjani. “Nikhethe ezinye zezindlela ezinhle kakhulu zokubukeka, kodwa angazi ukuthi ngicabangeni ngeqoqo lonke,” kusho omunye umsebenzisi ku-post kaMeagher, kanti omunye uchithekile ngaphansi kwe-post kaCriales-Unzueta ku-Instagram: “Ukubhekisela nokucaphuna ngokuphindaphindiwe ngaphandle kokubonisa izingubo nemikhiqizo enobuciko, ethokozisayo nemisha akusanciphisi futhi akukashintshi isikhathi eside manje.”
Nomaphi lapho iBalenciaga iya khona esikhathini esizayo, kusobala ukuthi iqoqo langaphambi kwekwindla kuzodingeka libhekane nokubuyekezwa okuxubile kwasekuqaleni kanye nesifiso somphakathi esinamandla sezingubo ngenhliziyo yonke uma lifika ezitolo kuleli hlobo.
Bhalisela iphephandaba lethu bese usilandela ku-Facebook naku-Instagram ukuze uhlale usesikhathini nazo zonke izindaba zakamuva zemfashini kanye nenhlebo emnandi embonini.
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Isikhathi sokuthunyelwe: Meyi-17-2021